Wrist Test: Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Fly-Back
The Zenith El Primero measures tenths of a second at 36,000 vibrations per hour, and the Fly-Back resets and restarts with a…
Read more →Squale makes dive watches and nothing else. Swiss, with an Italian name: before signing its own watches it built water-resistant cases for other brands. The 42 mm 1521 and the 40 mm 1545 are the two historic models, from €695.
























Squale does one thing: dive watches. It is Swiss, carries an Italian name, and before it signed watches of its own it built water-resistant cases for other brands — which is why it has always been a watchmaker’s brand rather than an advertiser’s. The range stays small and recognisable: two historic models, the 1521 and the 1545, and a few variations around them.
The most unusual fact in Squale’s history, and one almost nobody tells. The von Büren family did not start as a watch house but as a specialist in water-resistant cases — parts that ended up inside other brands’ divers, at a time when keeping water out was the central technical problem of sports watchmaking. The dates, for the record: von Büren was founded in Neuchâtel in 1946, the Squale trademark was registered in 1959, and the first watches signed Squale appeared in 1962. Since then it has made almost nothing but divers, chosen by working divers before collectors.
A 40 mm case, crown at three, clean lines. The way into the brand and the easiest to wear daily, on rubber or a steel bracelet. About €695–€1,010.
A 42 mm case with the crown at four: the historic model, built for 500 metres. Many variants — Militaire, Blasted, Full Luminous, DLC — and a COSC-certified version. €1,220–€1,990.
The small one: 38 mm, sunray or Arabic-numeral dials, leather or bracelet. €1,250–€1,440.
The large one, 44 mm, on mesh or bracelet: the most contemporary of the range. €1,600–€1,820.
The top: the Master Titanium reaches 120 atmospheres — 1,200 metres — with a helium escape valve, the detail that matters to anyone breathing mixed gas in saturation. Alongside it, the limited Grand Bleu. €1,875–€2,750.
The Sub-39 takes the vintage proportions to 40.5 mm, including a GMT. Limited editions such as the Corallo appear in a few dozen pieces and go quickly.
Squale runs an unusually tidy ladder: 38 mm Super-Squale, 40 mm 1545, 42 mm 1521, 44 mm Matic. On a diver, thickness counts as much as diameter — a case built to hold fifty atmospheres cannot be thin, and two watches of the same width can wear very differently.
The 1521 is built for 500 metres, the origin of its “fifty atmos” nickname; the Master Titanium reaches 120 atmospheres; the 1545 is rated 30 atmospheres (300 metres), the Super-Squale 20 and the Matic 60, that is 600 metres; the 2002 series reach 100. The 1521 Classic COSC carries a movement chronometer-certified by the independent Swiss body, tested in five positions and at three temperatures; the other versions use the same mechanical set-up without certification. The stated calibre on current references is the Sellita SW200-1.
Squale has no wide US distribution, which is part of why collectors order it from Europe. Every watch ships with its original box, papers and manufacturer warranty, from a dealer with a workshop behind the counter — about us. Original Tropic rubber straps, leather and steel bracelets are under straps and bracelets, and the wider selection under professional diver watches.
The real decision. The 1545 has a 40 mm case and starts around €695: the way into the brand, more restrained and easier to wear daily. The 1521 is 42 mm, between €1,220 and €1,990, and is the historic model — crown at four o’clock and the presence of a real tool.
Swiss, with an Italian name. It grew out of the von Büren family’s work: before signing watches of its own, the company built water-resistant cases for other brands — the most unusual fact in its history. von Büren was founded in Neuchâtel in 1946, the Squale trademark was registered in 1959, and the first watches signed Squale appeared in 1962.
It depends on the model, and the rating is on every product page. The 1521 is built for 500 metres — the origin of its historic “50 atmos” nickname. The Master Titanium reaches 120 atmospheres, 1,200 metres. The 1545 is rated 30 atmospheres, 300 metres, and the Super-Squale 20 — more than enough for any recreational dive. The Matic sits at 60.
The 1521 with a movement chronometer-certified by COSC, the independent Swiss body that tests accuracy in five positions and at three temperatures. In our catalogue it is the 1521 Classic COSC, the dearest of the family at around €1,990.
Yes. Shipping to the US and Canada is a flat €22.50, insured and tracked, in 3–5 business days. Prices are shown in euro and include Italian VAT, which is removed at checkout for orders shipped outside the EU. Import duties on arrival are the buyer’s responsibility. Squale has no wide US distribution, which is part of why collectors order it from Europe.
Swiss automatics: on current references the stated calibre is the Sellita SW200-1, a widespread base — sturdy and serviceable anywhere, which on a watch made for water matters more than rarity.
There is a standard that says so, ISO 6425, and it is not a formality: water resistance tested piece by piece rather than by sample, a graduated unidirectional bezel (so that if it moves it can only shorten the time, never lengthen it), legibility in the dark at 25 centimetres, an indication that the watch is running, and resistance to salt water and magnetic fields. It is why a diver has a thick case: that bulk is what passes those tests.
We carry both, so the answer is free of interest. Seiko Prospex starts lower, has a far wider range and in-house Japanese movements; Squale costs more for the same functions but is Swiss, runs a Sellita movement, goes deeper at the top of the range and carries a case-maker’s history nobody else has. For the best price-to-performance, often Seiko; for a rarely seen Swiss diver with a collector following behind it, Squale.
Squale is a small production and the series sell out quickly, the limited editions above all. What you see on the page is what we actually hold; the rest of the catalogue can be ordered but without firm dates, and we would rather say so than promise them.
Squale covers an unusually tidy ladder: 38 mm for the Super-Squale, 40 mm for the 1545, 42 mm for the 1521, 44 mm for the Matic. Thickness counts too: a 500-metre case cannot be thin.
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