Gem Encyclopedia
Emerald: The Green Gem of Desire
The emerald is one of the four classic precious stones (along with diamond, ruby, and sapphire) and perhaps the most romantic: its intense green — neither too warm nor too cold — has been considered for centuries the color of hope, fertility, and desire. Cleopatra was obsessed with it; the Aztecs revered it as a sacred stone.
Composition and Physical Characteristics
- Composition: beryl colored by traces of chromium (and sometimes vanadium)
- Hardness: 7.5-8 on the Mohs scale — good, but internal fractures make it fragile to impacts
- Color: green, from mint green to deep bottle green. The "Colombian green" with a slight blue hue is the most prized
- Luster: vitreous
- Inclusions: almost universal — emeralds almost always have a "garden" (jardin) of visible fractures and inclusions. An emerald without visible inclusions is suspect
Main Deposits
Colombia (Muzo, Chivor, Coscuez) — produces the world's most prized emeralds for color and transparency. The pure green with a slight blue note of Colombian emeralds is unmatched. Prices are proportionally the highest.
Zambia (Kagem) — high-quality crystals with darker and cooler colors. The Zambian market has grown significantly over the past twenty years as a valid alternative to Colombia.
Brazil — large volume, very variable quality. It also produces the less prized "green-yellow" variety.
Zimbabwe (Sandawana) — small emeralds but with very intense color, highly appreciated.
The "Jardin" of Emeralds
The inclusions in emerald — fractures, crystals, bubbles — are called jardin (garden in French). Unlike diamonds, where inclusions are considered defects to minimize, the jardin of emerald is part of its nature and personality. An emerald completely free of visible inclusions is almost certainly synthetic or aggressively treated.
Treatments
Almost all emeralds on the market are oiled: surface fractures are filled with cedar oil or resins to improve transparency and color. The level of treatment is classified (F1-F3): "no oil" emeralds (untreated) reach extraordinary prices. Cicala always provides documentation on the treatments of the stones offered.
The Emerald Cut
The rectangular cut with beveled corners often used for emeralds is named after this stone: "emerald cut." It highlights the transparency and color of the stone more than the brilliant cut.
Frequently Asked Questions About Emerald
- Is an emerald without inclusions authentic?
- It is most likely synthetic or aggressively treated. High-quality untreated natural emeralds always have at least some visible inclusions. Absolute clarity is almost impossible in nature.
- How do you care for an emerald?
- With great delicacy: no ultrasounds (they dissolve the treatment oil), no steam, no acids. Clean only with lukewarm water and mild soap, dry gently. Return to a jeweler for periodic re-oiling if necessary.
- Is emerald the birthstone for May?
- Yes, emerald is the traditional birthstone for the month of May.
Continue Exploring
Craft, guides and new arrivals
Subscribe to receive the stories from our magazine, our buying guides and a selection of pieces chosen by our goldsmiths and watchmakers.
